“Something spicy.” I was still fairly early into my trip, in Ubud on one of those tourist day tours, when I realised Indonesia hadn't really delivered on one of my expectations. I'd come expecting chilli. Proper chilli. Yet somehow, despite being in Indonesia, I hadn't eaten anything particularly spicy. So when the guy asked what I wanted, I told him exactly that. Something spicy. He gave me tangkleng kambing. It was a rocket. My lips were burning, sweat was pouring off me an