“India is not for beginners.” Someone told me that later in Jaipur when I explained how my first few hours in the country had gone. By then, it was funny. It wasn't funny at three or four in the morning when I was standing in a basement somewhere in Delhi, surrounded by men trying to sell me things I didn't want while another man came down the stairs carrying a cricket bat. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I'd wanted to visit India for years. Both of my parents had travelled